How to be good: Emmanuel Ray on the Creative Sector
We caught up with socialite, “It boy” and all round Fashionisto Emmanuel Ray (www.socialite-evenings.com) to find out what he makes of the current state of the sector, and how those aspiring to a creative career can make a splash.
1 – What are your top tips for anyone thinking about going into the creative industries?
Unless your work takes off almost immediately or you come from a privileged background, the chances that you might struggle to make ends meet are highly likely! So don’t quit your day job. Or do something part time to get a regular income. The first step is the most difficult one to take.. as you might have to do a lot of things for free, to build up your portfolio. Networking is very important. Whether you’re an aspiring fashion designer, tortured artist, eccentric writer or fabulous presenter, you MUST network. It is definitely the way forward in this competitive business. Soon you’ll realise that Who you Know is as equally important as What You Know! Look at everything from a business angle and learn how to spot opportunities. If opportunities don’t come soon, create them and cash in! Cut costs by swapping favours. Get a team of young proactive people together. Never start seeking sponsorship or partners without a proper proposal that lists out everything you offer first. What you seek should be mentioned last, briefly.
2 – Is it important to take a degree in a creative subject still?
A degree does make potential employers take you seriously. But I don’t have one, nor do I have any formal training in tv, media, film etc. Look how far I’ve come, in a short time! My personal opinion is that one needs no degree in a creative subject. But there are many young people who would like to have a formal education whether it is fine art, design or journalism. They do teach you everything step by step and that can give you re assurance, stability and security – that you’re learning from the experts. It’s a personal choice. Degree or no degree, true talent always shines through. I am talking from my personal experience of course!
3 – How big a problem is unpaid work and low pay in your experience?
It’s a very BIG problem. Many young people are being taken advantage of in the creative businesses. They are asked to work for free and are being promised exposure. Many tell me they are not given travel money or food! Then to add insult to injury, when the project is publicised or complete, they have to chase those who hired them, to get pictures, copies and so on for their portfolios. I’ve personally got involved in other peoples problems because I hate watching anyone being used or abused. Perhaps that is why Hello Magazine’s Emily Johnston named me the God father of the fashion industry! That was funny… but speaking seriously, there should be a government legislation that prevents the abuse of creative people. Some universtities say they will only release their students to work on projects if they are paid minimum wage. But outside the universities, these guys and girls network and end up working for nothing. I’ve been asked to Present, Host events and Commentate for free, in return for exposure. They keep saying “you’ll get exposure!” And I say “I don’t need exposure! I need money. Will you work for a few hours for free?” Then they shut up and go elsewhere to find some other young person to trick into working for nothing, in return for nothing! The ugly truth is that in this business, there are many young talented people, desperate to get that 15 minutes in the lime light. They will gladly work for free, just to build their portfolios. But if they are given at least some money, it would make them feel their time is worth something. If you cannot pay them, at least offer something substantial in return.. copies of the work, publicity in press releases, products from the event, networking opportunities etc. Whether they are an intern or not, I do my best to pay them through the budget, when I hire them for events. I re imburse travel, offer them food and drink, give them publicity and exposure and also give them honorary membership at my business networkiing society. I would also urge those in the creative industries to be alert and not fall into traps. If you allow yourself to be taken advantange of, then that’s your stupidity!
4 – Is being successful in the creative industries a case of “who you know” not “what you know”?
It is both. Who you know can work for awhile. It worked for me when I started off as a Model at 15. But I soon realised that good looks and who you know can only work for some time. There’s a lot of hard work you need to put in, learn new things, carve a niche, be different, stand out etc. You also have to make some really tough choices. Once I had to choose between a a really good job, and a friendship. I chose the job. Once I ahd to do something I was not at all happy with, in order to get ahead. I did it! What you know is very improtant too. As a Fashion Commentator, I started in March 2009. I waqs unprofessional, turned up drunk at shoots, never practised my script etc. My then agent Simon Wilson from Express Broadcast told me to grow up and take charge of my career or it would be over soon. Whom I knew and who he knew helped my career a lot in the first 6 months. Then it was upto me to show them what I was capable of and withint he next 3-4 months I had to perfect my act and carve my niche. I did not want to fit it, I wanted to stand out… so with a lot of hard work and putting ideas together, I managed to merge my 3 careers: Fashion Commentator, Business Networker & Events Host – and become The Working Socialite. This covers a variety of other work too from art exhibitions to charity fund raisers. If I had not worked on my career and learned everything I know through trial and error, on the job, I would never have gotten this far. You wouldn’t know me so this interview wouldn’t be happening. My advice to everyone is network properly and use who you know to get ahead, but make sure you work at your craft as what you know is what keeps your career going in the long run. Who you know might also be able to help you learn what you would come to know later!
5 – Can creativity be a tool for breaking out of poverty or deprived areas?
Yes. It worked for me. In my case, I would put it down to luck, although I was passionate and very hard working. I started dance at the age of 6 and gave my first public performance. I continued as a Dancer and was spotted on the beach when I was 15, then became a model. I had never thought about modeling before then. Dance and Modeling continued and it certainly help tackle poverty. I was raised in a poor background without any luxuries, so when Modeling and Dance took me places, I also started working on fashion and beauty promotions, adding to my income. I also did some writing, presenting at shows etc. Creative people should see the business angle in their work and focus on making money. Commercial is the way to go. Once your settled and have some money coming in, then you can do things that feed your artistic interests. For me, it was very difficult at the beginning, to get paid work. Even now it is not easy and I am very selective about what projects I take on. Basically, if there is no money, I’m not interested. Mutually beneficial agreements, swapping favours and charity fund raising, social causes etc – all depend on what it brings. Will it be fruitful? What’s in it for me? Why would I do that? These are questions all creative professionals should ask themselves before saying YES to a job that does not bring in money. One needs to spot opportunities, or even create them in order to bring home the biryani!
6 – Is the UK still an international force to be reckoned with in creative terms?
Of course. You out of all people should know that! From my experience, the majority of creative people around the world; artists, entertainers, designers and so on – all want to come to the UK. We are living in this fabulous creative hub that is the UK, which is almost at the centre of the world, with connecting flights from many countries. This land is steeped in culture, history, art and heritage. It is also very multi cultural and welcoming. The UK is where my career took off. When I landed in Britain, the country embraced me with open toned arms! Various designers from the USA, East Europe, Africa, Asia and the Middle East are flocking to London to showcase their work. With some hard work put it, they can get a venue for free to host their fashion show or presentation. Runways are expensive to create. So designers in London are showcasing their collections on film. Scottish designer Henrietta Ludgate’s work was put on display on a film showing models dancing to ballet, with 60s music in the background. Turkish designer Omar Kashoura’s presentation of models dressed in clothing inspired by urban life, was presented to the audience at a bar/restaurant in the strand. Italian fashion designer Nico Didonna and Irish designer Orla Kiely do presentations and videos, creating a visual treat that prevents the audiences’ eyes from wandering. It is very focused and they have managed to master the art of the Visual Impact. Ginta Siceva jewllery and Nonya K scarves are other brands that are making the most of this creative platform we have in the UK. Many young designers from overseas who do not have the budget to fork out thousands of pounds, tell me that they find it is cheaper to do their shows and presentations in London. La Geneve North events host some great fashion shows for up & coming designers. I do the same for designers that approach me, if I have the time. The truth remains that great quality means money! No matter how much you collaborate or swap favours, money is what brings you the additional extras such as celebrity booking, a good film/video, and great people who would work for you. Students are great, but if you need someone experienced and professional, you’ve got to open that clutch purse! The UK was, is and will always be an international force that would both attract and influence creativity. From singers to designers, artists and painters, designers and performers – a lot of them approach us and ask us to help launch their careers in the UK.
7 – If you could give your younger self one piece of advice before you started on your journey what would it be?
Time does not wait for anyone, and nor should you! My father told me this and I did not listen. I only took it to hear properly after he passed away a year ago. We had a love/hate relationship and I was very nasty to my dad before I left Sri Lanka. I always thought there’d be tomorrow to apologise, kiss and make up. But it was too late. Whether it is a personal issue, a career step, an opportunity, partnership, a relationship or anything else – NEVER leave it for tomorrow and NEVER wait for anything that might hold you back. Time is precious, time is money. You only get one shot at this life so make the most of it, and move fast.. allowing yourself just about enough time to pause and enjoy the little pleasures of life like a bunch of roses, a baby’s smile or the swans in the lake. You can relax and do nothing once you’ve lived most of your life and want to do less and take a break. I wasted so many years of my life after the end of my modeling career, doing drugs, getting drunk, bed hopping and bar hopping. If I had taken my Dad’s advice, I would have achieved my goals earlier. But we all make mistakes. The best thing is to learn from them and never make those mistakes again. My friend Marcel Nagajek was another person who told me the same thing “Time will not wait for you so act, fast, sort your life out and work hard! You’re not getting any younger!” His encouragement made me think of what Daddy said and I took it to heart. Look at where I am now?
8 – How accurate is the portrayal of bitchy infighting in creative organisations and fashion shows by the media and films?
It is quite accurate. I have met people in the industry that resemble characters in these films and TV shows; the bitchy editor, the swollen headed designer, the drug addicted model, the nasty journalist, the overnight-sensation blogger who has his/her head stuck in the clouds, the back stabbers, the jealous crazy idiots who can’t stomach someone else’s success, the swindlers and con artists who ask for money but don’t deliver what they promise, the annoying nutters who want everything for free, the freeloaders and so on. Film, TV and the Media in general (also novels) reflect what goes on in real life. Yes, they are often exaggerated and sensationalised but isn’t that what happens anyway… in fashion, film and showbiz in general? It’s all good fun and I think those true to themselves and work with genuineness and passion… are much more at ease with themselves and don’t get their mini briefs into a twist over trivial nonsense! Also, in this business, one has to make very touch choices. And that is perfectly portrayed in movies such as The Devil Wears Prada and Confessions of a Shopaholic.
9 – How can UK creative graduates break into international markets?
People overseas have a certain awe and appreciation for graduates that are educated in London or Britain. Having a degree from a British University can get you a job in anywhere in the world.. although sometimes you need to compromise. When I was in Dubai, I saw hundreds of British graduates flocking to the Arabian Gulf for jobs that offered them better pay, perks, accommodation and food, and a tax free lifestyle. Of course, it is not all wine and roses. Most often, you are working for the rulers of the land and you don’t really have the freedom or rights you have in the UK, over there. Whether you’re a director, manager or a cleaner – you’re seen as an expat who’s there to earn a living and staff to the rulers. But this usually applies to careers that are more corporate. Creativity is seen as a form of expression and a unique talent in human beings. Artists from the west who have worked in the Middle East, Asia, Africa and the Americas, are often treated very well and gain appreciation. UK creative graduates should do their research and learn about world affairs and politics, as they influence lifestyles, trigger off changes in society and so on. Look, see and listen. Which world economies are growing at a rapid phase. Why are so many Indian investors entering the film scene in Britain and in the USA. Why are the Gulf Arabs buying large amounts of property in the UK? What is the next big thing in the Middle East? The silent revolution and changes in art and creativity in general, in East Asia. African brands slowly making their way into the corporate sector in the UK. All of these things are connected. For example, in Sri Lanka, I worked on a project that was supported by the Sri Lankan and Japanese goverments, strengthening ties between 2 nations. A lot of creative people got jobs and it worked well for most of us. Perhaps a UK creative graduate can spot an opportunity between the UK and another government overseas? Maybe it could become a project. Said graduate can ask for backing from both governments and also travel overseas. The project will be publicised on an international level by both governments, the media and so on. Cultural entrepreneur Pablo Ganguli made it work and hosts events world wide, helping and supporting various creative professionals. My advice would be is to come up with a unique idea. If you’re seeking employment in the creative sector overseas, then do some research. Get to know people in the UK that hail from the country you have your eyes set on. Learn something about their culture and ways of communication. Network and attend targeted events, get in touch with media professionals in those countries. Think about doing a project here focused on that country and involve people from both communities. Think outside the box. Creativity today is about The Here, The Now and The New. And finally, don’t be taken for a ride. Make sure you are absolutely sure you know what you’re getting yourself into and be aware of your rights. After all, you’re creative and that makes you special!
10 – What should the government be doing to help the UK creative sector flourish?
Not axing the UK film council would be a good start! I can’t believe they are event contemplating this. We see a lot of home grown talent such as Kat Deeley and Alexa Chung going to the USA. I recently met a British actress who now lives in LA and she keeps bad mouthing the UK scene all the time saying there is no work here and that everything is cheap and rubbish. Many film makers struggle to get funding for their films in the UK. Co productions between India, the USA and the UK are becoming more common, which is a good thing. Young up & coming British actresses like Lisa Lazarus and Amy Jackson have succeeded in getting work in India. This seems to be a sudden trend among British actresses. They all want to go to India as it is a tad easier than breaking into Hollywood. The Indian Film Festival at Riverside Studios was a great event but did not do much to bring together home grown talent with potential investors and backers from overseas. I personally think that there should be a government body that imposes strict guide lives for film, fashion and cultural events in the UK, so everyone involved would do their work properly and not slack. The government should also be able to set up a trust fund or something of that sort that draws a certain amount from tax and revenue, and also appeal to various artistocrats, celebrities and the rich and wealthy to contribute generously to this fund. The money should be used to support those in the creative sector that are struggling to make ends meet or have no means of showcasing their talent to the world. Applicants will be investigated and I think it is perfectly alright to hire a few experienced personnel to deal with this issue. Celebrate the multi culturalism in the creative sector in the UK and give support to both new and established creative professionals who need to take the first steps, get back on the ladder, or want that extra helping hand to achieve their goals and contribute to the creative industries in the UK. Find out those claiming benefits. If they’re are at least reasonably physically able and have at least some form of creative interest, get them to work on projects that benefit young people in the creative sectors. If they don’t have a creative interest, then let them work behind the scenes in admin. It is both irritating and infuriating to see benefit frauds, and those doing nothing (even when they have the ability to work) just sitting their wasting tax payers’ money, bragging about it in the press AND justifying their laziness with stupid excuses. Gather all of them up and make them work for the creative sectors. At least they’ll have a fun time rather than being stuck at home with their boring brood! I would like to set up an independent body that helps and supports those in the creative sectors. I’ve decided to take the first steps towards making this idea become a reality, once London Fashion Week is over and I’ve completed my projects for this year. The government should also involve people like me in a project like what I mentioned above. Those in the creative businesses who have had to struggle to get where we are now, have a better idea of what needs to be done and how we can tackle the lack of support, funding and facilities for young professionals in the creative sectors. An organisation that provides free catwalk spaces and facilities for up & coming talent in the fashion industry would be a great idea too. A central location in London, a generous amount of space and good lighting would be a dream come true for many an aspiring designer. We all wear clothes and shoes. Fashion is part of everyone’s life whether we like it or not. The British fashion industry is full of fabulous young talent. They the the passion, skills, creativity etc but what they need in order to succeed are resources, exposure and of course, money!
When he’s not occupying the pages and sofas of Fashion houses and chic bars, Emmanuel runs networking events via www.socialite-evenings.com. Watch this space for imminent coverage of their August event.
Picture 1: Emmanuel Ray wears Nico Didonna at the opening night gala of Indian Film Festival, Riverside Studios, London UK. Picture 2: Emmanuel Ray in Nico Didonna with designer & illustrator Rebecca Cumaraswamy. Indian Film Festival, Riverside Studios, London UK. Pictures 3 : Emmanuel Ray in Nico Didonna, at Oliver Dunsch exhibition at Fiumano Fine Art Gallery. Photo by Lai-Ha Mo @ Missy Mo Photography.
Fashion Presenter Emmanuel Ray is dressed by Nico Didonna. He is styled by Ejaz @ House of Christilano.
